Monday, February 27, 2012

The Omnivore's Dilemma - Michael Pollan Part III, Personal, The Forest

Part III : PERSONAL

When Pollan decides to created a meal that is self-made, meaning a meal that he has "hunted, gathered, and grown" (p.277) entirely on his own, and that includes plant, animal, and even mineral ( at least he hopes so), I was skeptical.

Pollan's quest looks rather unusual since he points out that the hunter-gatherer food chain no longer represents a "viable" way for us to eat. There are simply too many humans and too little land.

Creating a meal is something that we can not learn from supermarkets or even farms according the Pollan. Indeed, we learn previously that we have no idea were the food we eat comes from. We are eating what the industry gives us to eat.

Pollan is a regular human, just like me and you. He does not know how to create a meal from scratch, and most of all, he never killed an animal.
First, to be able to hunt, you have to have a hunting license, which is a looooong process. It took him a couple of month to get his license. Here is my exact thought : " American paradox again. You can buy guns in store, but you have to take a test and wait months to get a hunting license." It wasn't that far-fetched. Pollan acknowledges this in his book.


This was not the last time that I agreed with Pollan. I found myself nodding in agreement when he writes in chapter 16:
"The French eat all sorts of supposedly unhealthy foods, but they do it according to a strict ans stable set of rules : They eat small portions and don't go back for seconds; they don't snack; they seldom eat alone; and communal meals are long, leisurely affairs. In other words, the French culture of food successfully negotiates the omnivore's dilemma, allowing the French to enjoy their meals without ruining their health." (p.301)
Folks, apparently this is common knowledge EVEN in the US. So... why on earth do you still have snacks, super-sized portions and, above all, why do you eat in a CAR ?????

Pollan explains that the American have not been around long enough to develop a strong food culture. Hence the fact that there is currently a "melting pot" in the US. America is lacking a unifying theme.

Pollan is being polite. I will not write my thought at this precise moment, but let me tell you that I am really irritated. I'll just carry on.

This is why Pollan thinks that the Americans are uniquely susceptible to the "national eating disorder" he mentioned earlier on the book. There is no consensus in the US about " what and how and where and when to eat". But this is crucial, there should be one, right?


Chapter 18 describes Pollan and the hunting part. He missed the pig once. After finally succeeding in killing the pig, Pollan is happy unlike what he was expecting. There is no guilt at first.
After a while, the sense of shame nonetheless appears.
No matter what, this was brave. I am not sure I would be able to kill a pig.


Once Pollan has all he needs to create his "perfect meal" ( even fungus) , it is time to cook.
The author invites to dinner only the people who helped him. (10 people) He makes a list of rules (see page 392 in the book) and ends up spending the entire day( litteraly) in the kitchen.

The book closes with the meal, Pollan recalls the McDonald's lunch with his wife and child in the car, which was in total opposition to this final meal.

As a conclusion, I quote the author who says about his final meal: " This is not the way I want to eat every day. I like to be able to open a can of stock and I like to talk about politics, or the movies, at the dinner table sometimes instead of food. But imagine for a moment if we once again knew, strictly as a matter of course; these few unremarkable things: What is it we're eating. Where it came from. How it found its way to our table. And what, in a true accounting, it really cost. We could then talk about some other things at dinner. For we would no longer need any reminding that however we choose to feed ourselves, we eat by the grace nature, not industry, and what we're eating is never anything more or less than the body of the world." (p.411)

This was not answering the idea of  a perfect meal. Nothing is perfect any way, but this ending was close.




Portillo's Hot Dogs review -REVISED

Intended audience : K college students.

       Tired of the K College "bubble"? During your weekend gateway, take a train or drive to the Chicago area and stop at Portillo's Hot Dogs.
       Started in 1963, by native Chicagoan Dick Portillo, the original restaurant has expended through several locations in the Chicago area. More recently, Portillo’s Hot Dogs has opened new locations outside Chicago; Portillo’s Hot Dogs is now a chain restaurant that can be found in states such as Indiana and California. Though the expansion into other areas has made Portillo’s a little less unique, it speaks to the success and popularity of Portillo’s.
Portillo's indeed offers a wider variety of food than most fast food places, and the quality is known to be better than places like McDonald's or Burger King. The food, however, is still just as affordable as the fast food places one is familiar with. According to their official website, Portillo's has won so many Silver Platter Awards that the company has retired from competition for five years in order to give the competing food places a chance for the award.
Portillo's is an effective choice if in quest of breaking the monotony. Upon entering the restaurant, one gets the feeling of being transported into another decade. At the Elmhurst location, the restaurant has a 50's theme. Items from the past such as a authentic giant coca-cola bottle or original advertisements, an American flag, a life size bicycle, and 50's posters from the time are hanging on the walls or the ceiling. Additionally, clothes from a high school class of 1957 are framed on the walls, strengthening Portillo’s old-school atmosphere. Even a super-sized record 45 tours has pride of place on the restaurant ceiling above the dining tables. The subdued lighting with the neon spots reinforce the atmosphere and the whole mood conveyed . The music from the era and perhaps some music from latter years, (some 60's or 70's musics played during the night I was there anyway) will make parents remember memories that students will wish they could have experienced as well.
Colorful, lively, casual, warm, friendly and clean : this is the atmosphere of Portillo’s. The place is typically packed with families with their children, couples on dates, teenagers, and even older generations who are trying to recapture the past. Sometimes, because the place is so busy, it does tend to get a little loud. All ages can enjoy Portillo's. It is nice place for students who are looking for something different while keeping their expenses low - nothing is above $7.00 on the menu and it is definitely better than anything served in the cafeteria.
Hungry? Go to a counter to order your meal. However, this may take a little while, especially for people who have difficulty making decisions. The amounts of choices seem endless. Hot-dogs, burgers, chicken, beef, or sausage sandwiches are among the options. The double burger is undoubtedly better and bigger than any hamburger that the cafeteria serves although it may be too spicy for some people. The beef meat is average but the taste is quite good overall and cooked according to the client's wish. For vegetarians, they serve meatless grilled tuna, halibut filet or grilled vegetable sandwiches. Additionally, five side orders are offered, ranging from the small French-fries to chicken tenders. The large French fries are a little too salty, just like as the Kalamazoo cafeteria, but nevertheless eatable since they are still hot. Portillo's also has a dozen varieties of salads and different options for soups. The classic ceasar salad is well prepared with thin slices of chicken are nicely presented. The ingredients are undoubtedly fresher and better than the Kalamazoo cafeteria and the dressing seems healthier. However, taken without any sides, the salad would only feed the appetite of someone with a small stomach.
As a dessert, Portillo's Chocolate cake is perfect for the chocoholic, although splitting it is a good idea. Its size is average but the chocolate is dense and has two different textures. The thin smooth creamy layer in the middle separates the compact dark chocolate parts. Three bites are enough to fill a stomach. Once that the question of what food to order is decided upon,then there is the beverage question. Shakes, smoothies or soft drinks are available for less than $3.00. For people over twenty one, Portillo's has a wide range of alcoholic beverages. It serves beer and wine, which is atypical for fast food places.

      For small appetites, options are still available. The regular hot-dog with mustard, relish, freshly chopped onions, sliced red pipe tomatoes, kosher pickle and sport peppers is better than the ones found in Times Square in NYC. This settles the Chicago and NYC rivalry once and for all. One hot-dog is enough, people usually save room for the wonderful small $2.65 chocolate cake shake listed on the drinks menu. Its consistence is quite thick but each spoon full is a delight. Who ever thought that simple chocolate cake bits mixed with shake could be paradise? Don't bother with the large one, finish it will be taking up a challenge. Be prepared to crave the chocolate cake shake once returned back home.

      Portillo's is unlike other fast food places since the place gives patrons the opportunity to tell the person taking the order how tender or cooked the meat should be. Another unique characteristics is that a man or woman then yells through a microphone the order to the cooks, but not without adding a few jokes at the end. The staff is friendly and will answer questions. Once food and beverage are decided and ordered, a receipt is handed to the client who needs to walk to the register on the other side of the counter in order to pay for the meal. Clients stand still there and wait for a short period of time their meals. Portillo’s is known for their quick service. The orders usually arrive in about five minutes. Since there is no waitress to assist patrons, whatever table available can be picked. Once this is done, open the boxes of food, start eating, and enjoy the meal. For people on the go, Portillo's provides a convenient drive-through. In any case, the food is good and ridiculously cheap.

ADDRESS Elmhurst IL 60126 , 155 S.Rte 83, (630)-530-8451
PRICE RANGE Under $10
HOURS Sun - Thurs: 10:30am – 10:30pm , Fri - Sat: 10:30am - 11:00pm
CREDIT CARDS All major credit cards accepted.

Thursday, February 23, 2012

King Corn movie

Zac talked about this movie in his post, I thought I'd share my summary with you... 
(PS for Zac : If you want to add something, feel free...)


KING CORN MOVIE

The movie opens on a striking fact: "For the first time in American history, our generation was at risk of having a shorter life-span than our parents. And it was because of what we ate. "

When two graduated college students discovered than hamburger is directly connected to hair, they were quite puzzled. How can this be? Corn is the answer.
The influence of corn is emphasized throughout the movie. High fructose corn syrup dominates the market.

In order to analyze the journey of corn,the two protagonists decide to move from Boston to Iowa to grow 1 acre of corn and figure out how corn can end up in hair.

The excess of corn in clearly showed in the documentary. Yellow corn dominates the entire middle part of the US. Iowa even has "corn palace". To put it in a nutshell, corn is part of the US everyday life.

Changes begun in agriculture in 1973 with the new Secretary of Agriculture, who wanted expansion and more food. Big farmers got bigger thanks to the government's aid.
Nowadays, without the government program, farmers are losing money. The two "apprentice" farmers received $28 from the government by telling them that they will be growing 1 acre of corn.

Fertilizers (named "Ammonia") are used to grow 4 times more corn than their great grand parents could grow.
The two protagonists realized that 31 000 seeds could be planted in 18 minutes in 1 acre thanks to industrialized progress.

The documentary underlines the idea that corn is "industrialized". The plants tolerate living close together. (2000 bushes per acre gives a huge amount of food)

In order to avoid having weeds on their land, they spray the land with a 90 foot sprayer containing a chemical named "liberty" designed only for "liberty" ground.

When they finally taste their corns, it is " not very good", " disgusting" and "taste like crap". Indeed, corn is not eatable is it. It has to be processed first.
Since corn is a raw material, Iowa farmers cannot feed themselves anymore.

Corn is mixed with other farms corn. It is nearly impossible to know where your production will end up. It is a " game of probability". Out of 10 000 pounds, about 10% of the production is turned into ethanol (use for the ethanol industry)
4 090 pounds are turned into sweeteners, and the remaining 5 500 pounds are used to feed cattle ( which eventually turns into meat!)

60% of the cattle ration is corn. The truth is far worse : They kill the corn-fed cattle rapidly because the cattle will be dead by 6 months anyway by the corn feeding.

In order to find where this corn feeding ends up, you have to leave the corn bell and go to Colorado. The example of the "Bledsoe Cattle Co." is striking. They feed the cattle with corn and then sell them back. They are growing 7000 acres of corn of year to feed the animals. This is what the "new look" of family farm looks like.

Corn replaced grass for cattle. Before, cattle would spend their time in open grass field. Nowadays, cattle are stocked in a field land, so that they are feed more rapidly with corn( even though corn can make them sick)

Up to 90% of US cattle are feed with corn now. However, the animals could developed diseases such as "acidosis" and could dies. In order to avoid this, low doses of antibiotics are mixed within corn.

However, feeding the animals with corn has terrible consequences. The animal becomes obese and its muscle tissues are actually fat tissues. While the average animal has 1.7g of saturated fat, the corn-fed animal has 9g of saturated fat.

So, the ground beef ( the one used for hamburgers) is fat disguised with meat... and it is American's favorite meat!
If you're under 30, chances are that you've been fed with only corn-fed beef.
Why? The answer is simple : Grass is more expensive and the US demands cheap food.

Corn price dropped but its production increased. This underlines the fact that productivity keeps increasing. Therefore, when too much corn was produced, the corn sweetener industry exploded. High fructose corn syrup, which is defined as a "science" in the documentary is obtained by boiling down the corn. This "technology" goes into drinks, enhances flavor, decreases the acidic quality of the tomato sauce and adds more brownness in bread. It is a "complex innovative system". It offers " a variety of choices for such little prices" according to a representative of a firm producing the item.

Here is the cold truth : almost every single item contains high fructose corn syrup.
( By the way, when the two protagonists tried to replicate the process at home, they were using corrosive products in order to obtain the syrup...)

As a consequence, the consumption of table sugar dropped by 30% since the introduction of high fructose corn syrup sweeteners on the market.

Corn is basically grown to be turned into sugar. The nutritional values are given up in the bargain and the nature of corn is transformed in the process.
(Empty calories are found in corn syrup, with zero nutritional values)

Corn grown in lands has a 70% chance to end up in beverage in order to sweeten it.
Any soda products contain corn syrup, which also leads to drinking more calories than before. (A driver in NYC explained that by stopping to drink sodas, he lost 1/3 of his weight) This affects the metabolism. Higher risks of type II diabetes is involved as well.
Obesity is strongly linked with food and the lack of exercise. Cheap food is essentially unhealthy food. Statistics demonstrated that drinking one soda per day doubled the chance of type II diabetes.

US people don't think about what they put on their systems.
Keep in mind that when you are eating at McDonald, you are basically eating corn!
A corn farmer acknowledged " We are growing crap, the poorest quality that the world has ever seen" and therefore he does not eat the corn he produced, he only sells it.
It is indeed the government's money that keeps people floated. ( otherwise, people would lose money.) With 1 acre, the total cost was $349.92, the revenue was $330 if they sell everything. Thanks to the $28 direct payment and the subsidiary system that reward the surplus of corn, they are able to recover from the loss.
This is the only way to keep the production growing full blasts.

Plenty of food is the motto, and cheap corn is actually the raw material for overweight people.

"It's America's best-kept secret. We feed ourselves with approximately 16 or 17% of our take home pay "

Nowadays, food is a commercial operation , the age of plenty. Fewer people actually produced food than before.

As it is stated in the end, " [we are the ] First generation to live in a time where abundance brings too much".


PS: Did you know that Iowa produces enough corn to feed the entire US ?







Aspartame

 What is aspartame?
Definition : "an artificial sweetener made from aspartic acid; used as a calorie-free sweetener."

This looks good on paper, but if you dig into the components on aspartame, you'll become disillusioned.
Aspartame is between 160 and 200 times sweeter than sugar, and contains methanol ( click on this link to find out what methanol is)

 Now, aspartame has been banned in Europe BUT is still legal in the US. Here is the US government's response after Europe banned aspartame.

Why?  Mosanto is the key answer. ( google  key words, you'll find really interesting articles)

What do you think ?

Sugary Drinks or Diet Drinks: What's the Best Choice?

Read this article from  Harvard

Wednesday, February 22, 2012

The Omnivore's Dilemma - Michael Pollan

Part II, Pastoral Grass

In chapter VIII, Pollan basically introduces the notion of " organic" food and its place in nowadays supermarket. In order to investigate this "organic" food, Pollan goes to a real farmer – John Salatin - who prefers to call himself a "grass grower". This term goes beyond being an organic farmer.
Salatin believes in what works, not the science. When Pollan asked Salatin to "FedEx" his meat, Salatin said that it was against his principles ( It never occurred to me that one could "FedEx" food to me... How bizarre... Anyway.)

Pollan describes the farm as having green grass as far as the eyes can see and different kinds of animals actually eating this grass, and not corn ( what a relief :D )

What is a big organic(or industrial organic) farm ? Just as a conventional farm, pesticides aren't used. Fertilizer isn't chemical.

Chapter IX concludes that even though this seems a "greener" method of producing food , it is still “floating on a sinking sea of petroleum.” Indeed, petroleum is still use to transport food until we buy it.

Why don't people carry on with the grass farming method? Here is the cold truth again : time is money. And time is precious. The grass farming method takes too much time to fattened the animals. Moreover, using this method would allow different "types" of grass. Heterogeneity doesn't seem to be part of the industry. Keep in mind that homogeneity defines the standard. Hence the fact that corn works much better than grass.
The polyface method seems great - it eliminates: antibiotics, warmers, pesticides, and fertilizers - but farmers ( or growers) do not want to wake up at 5:00 AM to work in the farm.

However, let me raise this question : If today's industry is so great, why do people feel the need to drive 150 miles in order to buy a chicken at Salatin's farm ?
(Keep in mind that, according to Pollan, farm grass products are expensive, yet average people nonetheless buy them.)

Why do people feel the need to go back to previous methods?

Salatin makes a point : Why are people concerned with their cars but not with their foods?
Just pause and reflect on this.



Here are some more facts I want to share with you :

  • Am I the only one who's wondering how much corn I'm eating at the caf' everyday ?
  • On page 163, Pollan writes about " prewashed salad", I never ate prewashed salad without washing it again first, what about you ? Read this article from cbsnews.com 
  • Pollan cites "Mosanto" in his book. A documentary (that you won’t see on American television) entitled The World According to Monsanto was aired on French television (ARTE – French-German cultural tv channel) by French journalist and film maker Marie-Monique Robin. Try to google it, you'll see! It is horrifying.
  • Here is a fact : "Sixteen million acres now being used to grow corn to feed cows in the United States" (p.198) ... SCARY, isn't it?
  • On the next page, Pollan raises questions: "Why did we turn away from this free lunch in favor of a biologically ruinous meal based on corn? Why in the world did Americans ever take ruminants off the grass? And how could it come to pass that a fast-food burger produced from corn and fossil fuel actually costs les than a burger produced from grass and sunlight?" (p.199) Those are exactly the kind of questions I was asking myself while reading the book. The answers given by Pollan really made me mad. Folks, we should try the French way : How about a strike ? :D

McDonald's in France...

Good evening,
I just read this article. I thought I would share it with you :)

Enjoy !

Tuesday, February 21, 2012

My own Adventure...

Hello, all !

I wanted to do something about chocolate and France.

I'm sure that most of you have already seen this face on the food network :




Let me introduce you to "Mister Chocolate" (as people call him in NYC)
He's French and settled in the US about 20 years ago.

Why choosing Jacques Torres as my own adventure ? 
We've been talking about food authenticity in class. Torres is producing "authentic chocolate". Check out his website : http://www.mrchocolate.com/

As can see in this video, not only did he keep the chocolate's authenticity, he also kept an authentic French accent

 I would like you to read Jacques Torres ' interview. 

How can this be working is the US? We've seen that food can never be truly authentic. (see Culinary tourism excerpt)
Do you think this could be working for everything and everyone , or it is working because it is chocolate and he is French ? (and obviously extremely talented)

So, I guess my question is  "Do you think that the idea of food success is the US could be linked to nationality and specific countries?"




PS :  Here are 4 more links if you are interested...
Short video on his famous Chocolate Cookie.
8 minutes documentary on Jacques Torres here
 Jacques Torres' profile
Torres' hot chocolate was number 7 in NYC... http://nymag.com/restaurants/features/26967/



See you on Thursday in class! :)

Monday, February 20, 2012

The Omnivore's Dilemma - Michael Pollan

Introduction and Part I, Industrial Corn

      The title of this book - The Omnivore's Dilemma - suddenly springs into focus when Pollan rises the questions of whether Americans should eat organic or non-organic fruits, farmed or wild fish. In order to answer those questions, Pollan divided his book in 3 main parts : The industrial or corn (and its origin), The Pastoral or grass ( and alternative to the industrial farming), and the personal or the forest (hunting in order to put a meal together)

      The Introduction, entitled "Our National eating disorder", begins with a simple question "What should we have for dinner?" ( "we" meaning the Americans). Pollan underlines the complexity of the question since it appears that the Americans have no idea what fills their stomachs, hence the fact that Pollan decided to investigate American food.

I want you to pay attention to those three following quotes and keep them in mind while reading the book :
  • "There are other countries, such as Italy and France, that decide their dinner questions on the basis of such quaint and unscientific criteria as pleasure and tradition, eat all manners of "unhealthy" foods, and, lo and behold, show our surprise at this by speaking of something called the "French Paradox", for how could a people who eat such demonstrably toxic substances as foie gras and triple crème cheese actually be slimmer and healthier than we are? Yet I wonder if it doesn't make sense to speak in term of an American paradox – that is, a notably unhealthy people obsessed by the idea of eating healthily." (p.3)
  • "We are not only what we eat, but how we eat, too." (p.6)
  • "Many of the problems of health and nutrition we face today trace back to things that happen on the farm, and behind those things stand specific government policies few of us know anything about." (p.9)

     As the name suggests, this entire first part of the book is devoted to providing relevant information about Corn. Mexicans are usually known as "corn people" since the majority of their meals consists in a lot of corn. However, it appears the the Americans are more of a "corn people" that the Mexicans. Worse, scientists found a high percentage of "corn carbon" in a typical North American hair. (Strange, isn't it?) Pollan devoted the entire chapter on corn and its background and also discovered that corn is present in almost every single product in the supermarket ( from meat products to soft drinks.)

The author highlights why corn came to be as massive as it is today. Corn result from humans "playing god" ; creating more problems that they had imagine. Pollan pays a visit to an Iowa corn farm. The farm owner underlines that a lot has changed since his own grandfather started the farm corn (the synthetic fertilizers came, the irrational government policies came along with the "endless" demand) The author underlines the fact that farmers are actually loosing money with the corn they grow and emphasizes that the US agricultural policies are responsible for this. Indeed, there are creating an artificial demands, which results in excess supply of corn. In the end, corn has almost no value.

Chapter 4 is the chapter you want to avoid if you eat meat and if you don't want to have your appetite spoiled ( remember that the author warned you in his introduction!) The beef industry causes pollution and toxic waste but there is worse : the industry forces cows to eat seeds full of hormones, antibiotics and synthetic protein from other cows... which is totally crazy and even worse: it is dangerous. Yes, you did read correctly: cattle are fed with corn containing antibiotics. (Cattle used to eat grass back in the days, remember?)
The author acknowledges the silliness of the situation: "Here the drugs are plainly being used to treat sick animals, yet the animals probably wouldn't be sick if not for the diet of grain we feed them"(p.79), he says.

Folks, here is the cold truth : corn isn't corn anymore. If "You are what you eat"[then]what we are, or have become, is not just meat but number 2 corn and oil" (p.84) If Americans assume that "[they] are what [they] eat", according to the author, Americans are not far from being reduced to corn. However, since it is nearly impossible to know how the industry actually process corn, Pollan studied this process at the Center for Crops Utilization Research at Iowa State University.

Further on in part I , Pollan states that processing food uses a lot of energy: "for every calorie of processed food it produces, another ten calories of fossil fuel energy are burned." Basically, on top of messing up the American food, the industry is wasting energy. ( Does " greenhouse effect" rings a bell ?)

Question :Why using corn everywhere?      Answer : Two words. Money matters.
Indeed,even Coca-cola drinks contain corn. Indeed, why keeping the sugar when you can save cents with the corn syrup, right? "By 1984, Coca-Cola and Pepsi had switched over entirely from sugar to high-fructose corn syrup" (p.104) states the author.

In chapter VI, Pollan tackles the issue of the "fat" nation since the over production is leading to over consumption. ( Does " Super size me" rings a bell?) American culture is known to be "big" for everything. I'm not only talking about food here, I'm also talking about the result of this "big" food (meaning fat people)
The notion of (over) abundance is used by Pollan when he draws a parallel between the over consumption of corn whiskey in 19
th century and the current over consumption in food. Pollan underlines the human psychology aspect by stating that the food industry increased food portions to give people more food
while avoiding them to feel guilty since they do not eat a second portion.

Pollan then highlights that this over consumption of food has direct consequence on American's health. Statistics says that a baby born in 2000 has 1/3 chance of developing Type 2 diabetes in his/her lifetime. Why? A high density of Corn Syrup is contained in virtually every sweetened products. 3/5 Americans are considered overweight.
Again, why do people continue to eat cheap or to each junk-food ? The answer is worse than the question : it tastes good. ( Do they know about health warnings?)
If " you are what you eat", then people should know "junk-food" doesn't sound good. Pollan finally has the epitome of junk ( and processed) food : McDonald's. And indeed, it doesn't sound good at all. The facts are here: "Some time later I found another way to calculate just how much corn we had eaten that day. I asked Todd Dawson, a biologist at Berkely, to run a McDonald's meal through his mass spectrometer and calculate how much of the carbon in it came originally from a corn plant...the atomic signature of those carbon isotopes is indestructible, and still legible to the mass spectrometer.... soda (100 percent), milk shake (78 percent), salad dressing (65 percent), chicken nuggets (56 percent), cheeseburger (52 percent), and french fries (23 percent)" (p.116)

     As a conclusion, Pollan blames the agricultural policies for the unhealthy Americans. Corn is not eating directly, however it is there. Animals had been fed with corn, foods have been processed. In the end, up to 90 percent of corn energy(or calorie) is lost in the process. Americans eat more and more - and are left not satisfied, but “simply, regrettably, full.” (p.119)


PS: Do you get why I really don't want to step a foot in Mcdonald's?

More to come on Thursday...

Tuesday, February 14, 2012

Portillo's Hot Dogs review

Intended audience : K college students.

       Are you tired of the K College "bubble"? Take a train or drive to Chicago area and stop at Portillo's Hot Dogs during your weekend gateway.
       Started in 1963, by native Chicagoan Dick Portillo, the original restaurant as expended through several locations in the Chicago area. More recently, Portillo’s Hot Dogs has opened new locations outside Chicago; Portillo’s Hot Dogs is now a chain restaurant that can be found in states such as Indiana and California. Though the expansion into other areas has made Portillo’s a little less unique, it speaks to the success and popularity of Portillo’s.
Portillo's indeed offers a wider variety of food than most fast food places, and the quality is known to be better than places like McDonald's or Burger King. The food, however, is still just as affordable as the fast food places one is familiar with. According to their official website, Portillo's has won so many Silver Platter Awards that the company has retired from competition for 5 years in order to give the competing food places a chance for the award. Portillo's is an effective choice if you're in quest of breaking the monotony. Upon entering the restaurant, one will feel transported into another decade. At the Elmhurst location, the restaurant has a 50's theme. Items from the past such as a authentic giant coca-cola bottle or original advertisements, an American flag, a life size bicycle, and 50's posters from the time are hanging on the walls or the ceiling. Additionally, clothes from the class of 1957 are framed on the walls, strengthening Portillo’s old-school atmosphere. Even a super-sized record 45 tours has pride of place on the restaurant ceiling above the dining tables. The subdued lighting with the neon spots reinforce the atmosphere and the whole mood evoked. The music from the era and above ( some 60's or 70's musics were played during the night) will make your parents remember memories and you'll probably wish you could have experienced them as well. Colorful, lively, casual, warm, friendly and clean are all descriptive adjectives of the atmosphere of Portillo’s. The place is typically packed with families with their children, couples on dates, teenagers, and even older generations who are trying to recapture the past. Sometimes, because the place is so busy, it does tend to get a little loud. All ages can enjoy Portillo's!

      Are you hungry? Go to a counter to order your meal. However, this may take you a little while, especially if you’re known to be undecided. The amounts of choices for meals seem endless. Hot-dogs ($2.39 and up), burgers ($3.59 and up), or chicken, beef, or sausage sandwiches(up to $6.54) are among the options. They even serve $4.99 meatless grilled tuna, halibut filet or grilled vegetable sandwiches. Additionally, five side orders are offered. It ranges from a $1.59 small French-fries to the $3.99 for chicken tenders. If you are more of a salad or soup person, don't worry; Portillo's has got it covered. There are a dozen varieties of salads from $4.50 and up and different options for soups that are $2.99. After one makes up their mind about the food, then there is beverage. Soft drinks are available with prices starting at $1.57. Shakes or smoothies are available as well for less than $3. For those over 21, Portillo's carries beers and wine, which is atypical for fast food places. After you’ve made up your mind, don’t forget that you have another option, which is unlike other fast food places. If you order a burger, you can tell the person taking your order how tender or cooked you want the meat to be. That man or woman then yells through a microphone your order to the cooks, but not without adding a few jokes at the end. The staff is friendly and will answer your questions. Once you’ve decided and ordered your food and beverage, you are handed your receipt where you then walk to the register on the other side of the counter where you pay for your meal. Then you stand still and wait for your meal for a short period of time. Portillo’s is known for their quick service, so your order usually arrives in about five minutes. Since there is no waitress to assist you, pick whatever table you like, open your box of food, start eating, and enjoy your meal.

The $1.85 large French fries are a little too salty, just like as the Kalamazoo cafeteria, but nevertheless eatable since they are still hot. The $ 5.55 double burger is undoubtedly better and bigger than any hamburger that the cafeteria serves although it may be too spicy for some people. Cooked according to the client's wish, the beef meat is average but the taste is quite good overall. The $4.75 classic ceasar salad is well prepared, but would only feed the appetite of someone with a small stomach. In case you still have room for dessert, the $2.40 Portillo's Chocolate cake is perfect for the chocoholic, although you may want to split it. Its size is average but the chocolate is dense. You may be full after three bites.

       If you’re not really hungry, there are still options for you! Try the regular $2.39 hot-dog with mustard, relish, freshly chopped onions, sliced red pipe tomatoes, kosher pickle and sport peppers. It is better than the ones you can find in Times Square in NYC. One hot-dog is enough, you must save room for the wonderful small $2.65 chocolate cake shake listed on the drinks menu. Its consistence is quite thick but each spoon full is a delight. Don't bother with the large one, you probably won't be able to finish it. Be acknowledge that you'll find yourself craving it in K.

     Portillo's is a nice place for students who are looking for something different while keeping their expenses low and it is definitely better than any thing you will be served in the cafeteria. You might want to stop by to the drive-through before heading back to K.

ADDRESS Elmhurst IL 60126 , 155 S.Rte 83, (630)-530-8451
PRICE RANGE Under $10
HOURS Sun - Thurs: 10:30am – 10:30pm , Fri - Sat: 10:30am - 11:00pm
CREDIT CARDS All major credit cards accepted. 






 

Monday, February 13, 2012

Expectations about Portillo's

"One of my favorite activities when I travel is eating. [...] Food is[...] a vivid entryway into another culture", wrote Lucy M. Long in Culinary Tourism.
I'm French, and just like Lucy M. Long, "my childhood was filled with contrasting food experiences" (p.2). I tried Italian, Chinese, Japanese, Indian, Grec, Tunisian, Maroquian, Turkish, British, German cuisine among others.
When I am in Dallas, I mostly eat Mexican or French cuisine. This fact raised a question : Why don't I eat American food?
In order to answer this question, I need first to define American food. To be honest, I don't think there is on type of American food. To me, American food is rather a melting-pot of many countries. However, after six months in the US, I think that fast-food is the epitome of American food culture.

What is wrong with this? Here is the truth folks: It's not that I don't like fast-foods. I just do not GO to fast-foods. This is beyond my boundaries. I've seen to many documentaries and read too many articles on fast-foods.
It has been at least ten years since I have been to a MacDonald. I am a salmon person, I am salad person. I try to eat as healthy as possible in France. As far as eating healthy in the US is concerned, let's face it : I completely gave up healthy food the day I step a foot in Kalamazoo Cafeteria. You all got it at this point : I am just not a fast-food person.

However, what is a better entryway into the US culture than Fast-food?  None. I therefore have no choice but to try. Here's what I keep thinking: "Julie, this is called integration. Try it."

When my host in Elmhurst - a lovely suburbian town near Chicago - told me " We are going to a real American fast-food restaurant", I must admit, my heart stopped for a moment. I was puzzled by the dichotomy of " fast-food" and "restaurant". Those two terms just do not go together.

"Dear Lord. This is going to be a nightmare" was precisely my exact thought. My host must have seen my worried face ( though I really tried my best poker face)
"Julie, do not worry, were are not going to MacDonald." Mercy. Thank God.

"We are going to Portillo's, in Elmhurst"
"Alright", I thought, "the name doesn't sound too bad, although it doesn't sound truly American either". According to my host, the experience is worth it, and I shall go there.

I did not googled Portillo's, so this would be a truly new experience. I do not really know what I am expecting. Yes, fast-food is low standard, however, this can't be worse than McDonald, right?

French are known to be those snob people. Folks, it is time for me to prove that I'm not this snob person who would look at other people at loose ends ( or disdain, even worse) when they said they ate fast-food. I am going to this Portillo's place. Yes, I am skeptical, even worried.  Admittedly, you don't judge the cover by its book. I'll give Portillo's its chance.I had a late breakfast around 11AM. I am going to skip lunch and go to this place around 6:30PM. I'll have a good appetite by that time.
Sam Sifton, I'm following your advice!  I'll have room for trying different items.

This is going to be an adventure for me! Portillo's, here I come!

Wednesday, February 8, 2012

"Culinary tourism" quotations

"Culinary tourism" quotations.


-p.1 : "One of my favorite activities when I travel is eating."
    " Food is[...] a vivid entryway into another culture."

-p.2 : " My childhood was filled with contrasting food experiences: Asian version American foods, Korean versus Japanese, mountains versus flatland, wealthy versus poverty level, urban versus rural, "hillbilly" versus mainstream, Northern versus Southern.

    "Food as both a destination and a vehicle for tourism."

-p.5: "Food is a physiological necessity as well as a social and cultural construct and expressive medium"

-p. 15: "Food is more than simply the dishes we consume, tourism is more than traveling to a culture different from one' own."


-p.22: " We have probably all had the experience of unknowingly eating something that we otherwise would have considered inedible or unappealing and would have approached with curiosity, with the sense of trying something different."

-p.45: " I found the motivations for culinary tourism to be complex and to reflect what appears to be a basic and universal impulse."

-p.46: " As destination and vehicle for tourism, food expands our understanding of both food and tourism."

-p. 51 : " By offering Mexican culture as a touristic subject, producers and promoters have had to negotiate the stereotypes held by Anglo-Americans.

-p.53: "Eating and tourism go hand in hand."
   
    "Culinary tourism [...] provides a framework for interrogating the various intersections between tourism and foodways."

    "culinary tourists can explore the exotic without leaving their own neighborhood."


-p. 56: [ Restaurants] " fail to be truly authentic, because they arranged to fool the tourists into believing they are having an authentic experience. Thai restaurants tends to reflect the American perception of what constitutes an authentic Thai experience, even when this perception veers from the reality of Thai culture."

    "The menu and the decor " appear to be created to engender a sense of authenticity, even when other factors expose the fact that these representations are not necessarily authentic."


-p.58: "Local availability of ingredients can also thwart attempts at authenticity. Even when restaurants claim to use traditional ingredients, they often must substitute ingredients that are more easily available in the US." [... This] conditions undermine the authenticity that the restaurants try to uphold."

    The decor "create a sense of authenticity beyond the food."


-p.61: "Modernization as the loss of authenticity."

-p.62: "Authenticity is created as much through the tourist's own perceptions as it is by the host's performance of otherness."


-p.65: "Food is a means of expressing and reinforcing identity."

    "culinary difference can also express cultural difference".

-p.70:  " The variety of ethnic food may be the way to define the American identity and cuisine at all."

-p.71: " The post-tourist is aware of the social and commercial constraints to authenticity and decides to overlook them".

-p72: " The concept of authenticity can be applied to other locales of culinary tourism, such as cookbooks, food festivals, or cooking classes."

Monday, February 6, 2012

Revised Memoir

Summer 1996.

    I was a seven-year-old breezy, genial, greedy, and lively girl. My mum had brought my three-year-old brother and me to Italy for a summer vacation. My dad was not able to come with us because my mum told me that “somebody had to work.” We stayed at my grandparents' place. Since my grandfather left Italy and moved to France, it has been a family tradition to spend three months in Noci every year. Noci is a small Italian village about forty kilometers away from the Mediterranean cost. The name itself has always been funny to me because in English, "noci" means “nuts.”

    I don't particularly remember what happened that summer in regards with my mom and brother, but I do remember the place, atmosphere, and flavors. I remember that the journey was long, about eighteen hours by car from Strasbourg. When I got out of the car, the first thing I noticed was the landscape. The sight of olive trees everywhere, the scent of fruit trees, the natural bright light from the sun, and the tiny roads are among some of the things I recall.  Summers in Noci, Bari are very hot. During the afternoon, the air would be so dry and hot that hiding in the vault is the only thing left to do. My grandma or one of my great aunts would be cooking and spending almost their whole time in the vault. The vault entrance is a fairly fresh big space, big enough to have twenty-five people sitting here during family reunions. The floor is a cold grey, the ceiling is white and one side of the wall is completely light brown. A window is on the left side of the entrance. You can also access the vault from within the house, using the imposing stairs. I never did this, probably because I was too afraid to get lost in this house. The three floors made out of marble were what I imagined a staircase of a deserted castle to look like. Not a noise could be heard during the afternoon. Everybody was either sleeping or went to the beach for the day. One could access the vault by the lower level of the courtyard, but going to the vault from the oustide of the house was the entrance I found to be more fun. I would get aimlessly lost into the garden until I wasn’t sure how much time had passed. Probably less than thirty minutes though, otherwise I am sure somebody would have come after me. We were in Italy after all.
    My detour would begin on the first floor - I had no choice but to use the imposing stairs, my bedroom was on the second floor – Once there, I would go to the white brick terrace. Being outside did not bother me. I liked the blinding sun. Then, once outside, I would take the terrace stairs and go to the garden. There would be pink and red roses surrounding me. I am not sure whether those were roses, but they certainly looked like roses to me. I would smell them and then my attention quickly changed to my move toward my main interest in the garden, the fig tree. I would smell the figs and start picking them. I usually could not resist eating them right away. Further away was the kitchen garden, right after the cactuses. A million and one savors were awaiting me. Smells of tomato, pepper, and a plethora of other spices like basil, marjoram, and thyme lingered.  Finally, I would take the stairs to go down to the lower level courtyard. I was to the opposite side of the house now. In front of me was the vault cave. I would find my grandma in the kitchen inside the vault, cooking.  In the afternoon, I would be the only one in the corner of the kitchen, sitting on a chair, right before the table, looking at her in silence. I would be watching the entire cooking experience without even being able to relate what it was like. I would be uplifted by the odors as she prepared a variety of food. My mind would get away from me as I got lost in the flavors. Then, the voice of my nonno speaking in Italian to my grandmother would bring me back to earth. When nonno entered the kitchen, it usually meant that it was time for dinner. I would be so focused on what my grandmother was doing that the meal would be prepared in what seemed like no time at all. Unlike the other kids my age who were probably thinking about candy and chocolate, I was fixated on the natural smells that lingered from her cooking.

    I once saw an advertisement on the Italian TV about Toscany, and I thought to myself that it was probably the most wonderful place to me, though I had never been. My mind was without limits. I would then sometimes imagine myself cooking the most exquisite meal with selected fresh ingredients. The ingredients I imagined myself cooking with were normally ones I saw during the week while shopping or going to the market. I recall one morning when I went to the food market with my nonno and the place was packed. People would be speaking really loudly in Italian and others were screaming. Italians do not have the same sound intensity as others nations, that was for sure. I couldn’t help but cover my ears when things became too loud. Despite the noise, the food market was an incredible place. There was such variety in what was there. There was a real sea market that had pesce for as far as the eye could see. Not only was there pesce, but all sorts of foods such as il pomodoro, la pera, la fragola, l'uva, la mela. In other parts of the market, there was il pane, il salame, il formaggio, le tagliatelle, and il gelato. (While I was there, I was able to speak in Italian, but unfortunately after my leaving, the language is hard to remember. Only food words remained in my mind.) Then, just when I thought the experience was over, a whole new market was awaiting me only a few steps away. There would be not only food, but shoes, clothes, and sea supplies too. It was like a real bazaar. After a good two to three hours, depending on how many people you would run into during the journey, we would go back to the house, where my grandma would be waiting for us.

    Around dinner time, the vault would be full of people, friends, family who would stop by and taste the food that was being cooked. This part was always scary for me. It was typical for the old men to pinch my cheek while saying " Bona sera Julie !" After  they pinched my cheek, I could feel the pain for minutes afterwards because their grip was so tight. Why could they not just "faire la bise"  like we do in France? Dinnertime was a sacred thing for my family, so the hours spent at the dinner table are memorable. My grandfather would always say “mangia, mangia!” ( “eat, eat” ) I also can’t forget that my family would always say “Julie, you’re so skinny! Don’t you eat in France?” Of course I was eating in France, just not the same quantity as they made me eat in Noci. In Italy, food IS life. They don’t eat for nutrition; they eat for comfort and leisure. Eating is seen as a relaxing activity that should be enjoyed and then followed by a nap, if you were eating lunch. Food serves as entertainment here. Italian people are able to spend hours and hours talking about food while eating. In Italy, food is the symbol of the entire nation. Praising food should actually become a national sport.

    It was common for the entire family to gather from around 8:00PM to 1:00Am in the morning. Twenty people would sit down at the long rectangular table. In Italy we would eat in this sequence: Antipasti first, then Primo, Secondo, Contorni, Dolce, which is the way we would eat like that at the upper-class restaurant "Miramonte Ristorante" in Noci. The portions of food there were already too much, but when my family cooked, the portions were even more enormous. While the Primo is usually pasta or risotto in reasonnable quantity, the quanity we made was enough for a regular meal. Then you had the meat as Secondo, which was usually served with wonderful tomato sauce and bread. Well-mannered girls were not supposed to dip the bread in the sauce, however, there was no way I would resist not to dip it. Then, after the Secondo, there was another Secondo. I guess we could say a tercio. Why? Because some Italian men decided that meat was not enough. Fish, "pesce" was missing. In Italy, men make the rules, therefore, we had fish. The food kept coming with the sides dishes, "contorni" with "verdura" or "insalata" and some vegetables such as "melanzana.”  Then, there were cheeses and bread. I would be eating Bocconcini, Ricotta, Mozzarella, Gorgonzola, Taleggio, Provolone, Pecorino Romano and other cheeses which whose names the names I cannot remember.  This is what happens in a French-Italian family; they cannot compromise about food, so there is always more than necessary. After the main courses, I would always save space for dessert or " dolce". Who can resist a tiramisu ?

    Looking back on that summer, it’s a real shame that I never asked nonna if I could cook with her. I would have been able to because there was no language barrier; she spoke French too. However, that was not the case with the rest of my family. Everyone besides my grandparents spoke an Italian dialect called “Nocese.” Another reason I did not cook with my grandmother was because I was content just being in  her presence. I never wanted to break the silence between nonna and myself because I was afraid to disrupt her. What she was doing seemed so magical and I thought asking to help would be a distraction.
    One thing she specifically made that I enjoyed was her sugo di pomodoro (tomato sauce). It is undoubtedly the most wonderful tomato sauce on the earth. She would leave the pot for at least four hours. I later learned that this this helps to remove the sourness from the tomatoe. Then, she would thinly slice the onion and tomates, and add the tomato paste and the tomato juice into her pot.  Next, she would put her secret ingredients in the pot. Aftewards, she would add chopped up meat that she had already prepared into her sauce. Lastly, my grandmother would blend half a carrot, a handful of bay leaves, and another handful of basil to her mix. The smell of her preparing her sauce made me crave the taste.

    The fact that I remember more about the food that summer than any other part of vacation is interesting to me. It is no wonder I am addicted to food now as an adult. My entire childhood had been centered on my trips to Italy where I looked forward to the food-centered atmosphere with my grandparents. I close my eyes and I see pizza, calamari, panzarotti, gelato, pasta, sugo di pomodoro. It is known that France is the best country to eat, but Italaians, like the French, take their time and enjoy their meals. However, it Italy, they consume a lot more food than we do in France. The French are reasonable with their portions. Yes, we love food, we do not have a feast (un banquet) for each meal. I found pleasure in being able to eat like the Italians, but it is not a way of eating that I would want to indulge in regularly. Food was cornu copia for me in Italy!

    While writing this, I realized that being in the U.S. makes me miss Italian food more than French food because talking about these meals makes me crave the things I cannot have here. I miss the Italian food-centered atmosophere and the “dolce vita.” Writing this made me realize how much time has passed since my last visit to Noci, so I feel inclined to write my nonna and tell her that I’ll stop by this summer. Proust has his madeleines, I have everything. I had just forgotten.

Wednesday, February 1, 2012

THOUGHTS on Secrets Ingredients PART 2

Is there a crisis in French Cooking?

Let me answer this question straightly : Oh yes!  When I read " fully 71 percent of Frenchmen named the banal steak-frites as their favorite plat" (p. 68-69), let me underline how desperated I am.
"Only people past sixty preferred a blanquette de veau, or a gigot d'agneau, or even a pot-au-feu, all real French cooking" (p 69)
Thanks to this article, I just discovered that I may look like a 22 year old but it appears nonetheless that I am an old lady. ( Yes, I would rather have a blanquette de veau than a steak-frites)

This article was written in 1997, not SO long ago. The author certainly knows what he is depicting : "Nobody thinks of changing métiers in France, because it's just too hard", he states page 79.
I'm afraid this is true. I read once that it is common for Americans to switch jobs at least 5 times in their lives. This would not occured to French people. Once they have a job, they are usually happy where they are. Indeed, " The French system of education [...] locks people in place" ( p.79)

The ending of this short story is wonderfully written.
"The food was even better that I had remembered. This proved either that (a) Proust was wrong, and you can always recapture the pleasures of your youth if you just go back to the places where you had them, or (b) there is more good cooking left in Paris that I knew, or (c) I went to the wrong place. Anyway, there's hope."
This whole paragraph reminded me of the discussion we had in class. (What makes a perfect meal? ) Gopnik was alone for this meal, so this had nothing to do with good company or great topic discussion. It was all because of the meal. And sometimes, this is all that matters.

(more to come later]